Cabernet Sauvignon, with apologies to Pinot Noir, is arguably the world’s most distinguished red wine grape. It’s the principal red grape of Bordeaux and the sine qua non of the extravagant new SuperTuscans. It’s what Spanish winemakers add to Tempranillo to bring it up to snuff. And in California… Cabernet is king!
The earliest distinguished wines to come from California? Cabernets from Inglenook and Beaulieu Vineyards. First wine to trample the primacy of the best of Bordeaux? A Cabernet from California (Stag’s Leap). A dozen or more wineries now make truly world class Cabernet Sauvignon in California.
Before we raise our glasses in celebration, however, consider that great California Cabernet Sauvignon is no longer a terrific value. While in former days the best California Cabernet Sauvignon could be purchased for about one-tenth the price of a first growth red Bordeaux, today the difference is inconsequential. Today’s premium “Cal Cabs” are priced up to $250 (750ml), about......
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